Awamori from Okinawa

How do climate, water and ingredients shape it?

Okinawa is subtropical, hot and humid, a climate where mash spoils easily. That is why awamori uses black koji, which makes plenty of citric acid. The water is hard and mineral-rich after passing through Ryukyu limestone. The rice is long-grain indica such as Thai rice, used in most brands.

What does it taste like?

The National Tax Agency's standard describes a mellow, rich taste from the moderate oils that come from rice koji. Atmospheric distillation gives a toasty aroma, and vacuum distillation fruity notes like apple and banana. Awamori uses one mash made only of koji (zen-koji shikomi), unlike shochu, which is made in two steps.

A short history

Under the Ryukyu Kingdom the royal government controlled awamori, and only the three districts of Shuri (Akata, Sakiyama and Toribori) were allowed to make it. The tax agency's standard reads the craft as arriving more than 500 years ago through exchange with Southeast Asia and elsewhere. Black koji later spread to shochu makers in Kagoshima.

What is the GI "Ryukyu"?

It was designated on 30 June 1995. Only rice koji made with the black koji mould (Aspergillus luchuensis) may be used, and the water must be taken in Okinawa. Fermentation and single distillation take place in the prefecture, as do storage and bottling. The GI Ryukyu Management Committee, inside the Okinawa distillers' association, checks products.

What is kusu?

Kusu (古酒) is awamori stored for three years or more. It ages in clay pots or bottles, and the standard describes a sweet, vanilla-like aroma in atmospheric-distilled kusu. Many people also grow their own kusu at home with shitsugi. See Kusu and shitsugi.

Where are the distilleries?

The association lists about 45 distilleries in six areas: north, central, Naha and south, Miyako, Yaeyama and Kumejima. Shuri has distilleries such as Zuisen and Shikina. On Yonaguni, distillers make 60% hanazake.

Visiting and what to eat with it

The association's "Awamori Trail" offers visits to distilleries with certified guides. Booking is required, so check the official site. Diluted with water, awamori pairs easily with meals, and goes well with Okinawan dishes such as island tofu and rafute.