Sake and shochu from Ishikawa

How do water, climate and rice shape Ishikawa sake?

Winters are cold, and the Tedori River, which rises on Mt. Hakusan, feeds a rich network of groundwater. The prefecture also breeds its own sake rice. Ishikawamon has large grains with a big shinpaku (white core) and went on full sale in 2009. Hyakumangoku no Shiro was developed over 11 years by the prefectural research centre for heavily polished sake, and it tends to give a clean taste. Some breweries also use Gohyakumangoku.

What does Ishikawa sake taste like?

The GI standard for Hakusan describes its sake as generally full-bodied, bringing out the rice's umami. Its junmai ginjo and ginjo are said to have a gentle fruit-like aroma and moderate acidity. Some breweries work with yamahai brewing, and others make clean styles such as those from Hyakumangoku no Shiro, so the range is wide.

A short history of Ishikawa sake

Around Mt. Hakusan there is an old tradition of "kikuzake" (chrysanthemum sake), and a 1527 diary records Hakusan kikuzake being carried to Kyoto. People from the Noto peninsula who left for winter brewing work became known as the Noto toji and supported breweries across the Hokuriku region. The 2024 Noto Peninsula earthquake also damaged breweries in Noto, and the brewers' association posts updates on recovery.

What is the GI "Hakusan"?

It is the geographical indication of Hakusan City, designated for sake on 22 December 2005. Sake must use only Japanese rice (polished to 70% or less) and water taken inside the city. It must use a yeast starter, no liquefied mash, and at least 20% koji rice. It is brewed, stored and bottled in Hakusan City, and the GI Hakusan Sake Management Organization checks it.

Where are the breweries?

The prefectural association is made up of five local groups: Kanazawa, Hakusan, Komatsu, Nanao and Hosu. Breweries stand in Kanazawa, Hakusan, Komatsu, Kaga and the Noto area.

Visiting and what to eat with it

Tours and tastings often need a reservation, so check each brewery's official site. The association runs seasonal releases such as a prefecture-wide autumn "hiyaoroshi". The sake is said to go well with seafood from the Sea of Japan.