A short history of shochu and awamori
Shochu and awamori began when distilling reached Ryukyu from Southeast Asia around the 15th century; the word "shochu" is first recorded in 1559, sweet potatoes arrived in the early 18th century, black and white koji came after the Meiji era, and a 1990s honkaku boom took it nationwide.
- c. 15th century
Ryukyu and awamori
Distilling most likely reached the Ryukyu Kingdom around the 15th century through trade with Southeast Asia, in particular Siam (today's Thailand). Under the kingdom, only a few districts of Shuri were allowed to make awamori.
- 1559
Into Kyushu: the first shochu
The craft spread to southern Kyushu. At Kōriyama Hachiman Shrine in Isa, Kagoshima, carpenters left graffiti in 1559 complaining about a stingy priest who never offered them shochu. It is the oldest known written use of the word in Japan.
- early 18th century
The sweet-potato era
In the early 18th century sweet potatoes came to Satsuma from Ryukyu. They grew even in poor volcanic soil, and imo shochu was born.
- from Meiji
Better koji
From the Meiji era, awamori's black koji was adopted for shochu, and white koji (a mutation of black koji) soon followed. Brewing in a hot climate became far more reliable.
- 1990s on
Regional styles and "honkaku" shochu
Barley on Iki, rice in Kuma, brown sugar on Amami, barley and buckwheat in Miyazaki and Ōita: every region developed its own shochu. From the 1990s a honkaku shochu boom made it popular nationwide. Iki, Kuma, Ryukyu (awamori) and Satsuma are protected geographical indications.
Terms in this article
Also read
- A short history of sakeBorn with rice farming, shaped by temples, Edo and science.
- How honkaku shochu is madeKoji first, then sweet potato or barley, and a single distillation.
- How awamori is madeThai rice, black koji only, one mash, and kusu that grows with age.
- Types of shochu and awamoriSweet potato, barley, rice, brown sugar and buckwheat, plus koji and still.