Sake from Yamaguchi

What rice and water does Yamaguchi use?

Yamada Nishiki is widely used, and many breweries also use the prefecture's own sake rice, Saito no Shizuku. It was bred from Kokuryomiyako on the mother side and Seikai 222, itself a Yamada Nishiki offspring, on the father side. In Hagi in the north, brewers use soft, low-mineral water shaped by volcanic rock and granite.

What is special about Yamaguchi yeast?

"Yamaguchi Sakura yeast" came out of research at the prefectural industrial technology centre. It was isolated from cherry blossoms in Ajisu, in a project that began in the spring of 1999, and a strain suited to brewing was found. Several breweries make low-alcohol, sweeter sake with it.

What does Yamaguchi sake taste like?

The brewers' association describes local sake as light and refreshing. Many breweries describe their Saito no Shizuku sake as clean and crisp. Breweries differ a lot, so start with any bottle that catches your eye.

A short history of Yamaguchi sake

In the 17th century Mori Terumoto built the castle town of Hagi. Ringed by mountains, the town had to bring sake in by sea or over passes. Later, sake was brewed from nearby rice, and the National Tax Agency document explains that brewing skills came with the Otsu toji, based around Nagato. Since around 1990, brewers in Hagi have also worked with farmers on low-protein sake rice.

What is the GI "Hagi"?

It was designated for sake on 30 March 2021 and covers the city of Hagi and Abu Town. Sake must use only rice of grade 3 or higher harvested in the area and water taken there, and must be brewed, stored and put into its final container inside the area. The Hagi GI Management Committee checks each product before shipment. The standard describes Hagi sake as full, gentle rice umami with fresh acidity, with aromas of banana, melon and green bamboo.

Where are the breweries?

KIKI lists brands from Iwakuni, Shunan, Kudamatsu, Ube, Yamaguchi City, Hagi and other towns. Breweries are spread from the Seto Inland Sea side to the Sea of Japan side.

Visiting and what to eat with it

Tours and tastings vary by brewery, so check each official site first. Hagi is known for its walkable castle-town streets. For food, the GI standard says Hagi sake suits mild-tasting local products such as white fish and kamaboko fish cake.